When you order a set of plans from Northwest Canoe for the Merlin, this is what you get: A 24"x24" piece of paper.*

But it is all you need. It's all right there. I think it's way cool that you can build a canoe from just this; sort of spells out the magic that is boat building.

Each form sports 3/4" mounting holes, whereas each cleat offers tight little 9/32" holes for the 1/4-20 machine screws to pass through. Fender washers complete the picture, and the overall scheme yields killer adjustability. Rock-solid, too.

I like green tape, as you see. It's just like blue tape, except it stretches. I have never been able to figure out why blue tape is so popular, and nobody even knows green tape exists.

Get it at paint stores. Home Depot carried it for a while, but everyone passed it up and got blue instead, so they discontinued it. This kind of stuff makes me nuts.

The football and the side strips are meeting at the chines, and the lack of continuity spells big trouble. The problem is sort of like a strip that breaks where it needs to make a graceful bend, leaving an unsightly hump.

Whoa. I got to use the word 'unsightly,' at last! You have no idea how long I've been waiting for that to happen.

Anyway, the strap and jug arrangement, plus the 1"x1" stick under the main point of interest, is applying "pressure from nowhere," as it were. Or maybe it's a "one-sided clamp?" Whatever, it keeps everything pressed securely to the forms, works like a champ.

I've always used Raka epoxy for this sort of work before, but this time I'm trying US Composites. Seems to be working okay so far. I was a little worried if it would behave the same...

Down by the jug in the photo are a couple of spring clamps. They're mashing a scarf joint together in the latest strip. The joint itself is sandwiched between a couple short pieces of scrap strip with green tape on them as a release agent.

Dang, I hope some of this made sense.

Behold the world famous Little Square Thingies that I love, really come in handy.

Cut a mess o' 4" square pieces of doorskin plywood, stack 'em up and drill a 1/2" hole, cut slots. Super easy to make a dozen. Then cut a bunch of wedges, I'll show you the patented Wedge-O-Matic later.

Note the thin kerf rip saw blade: 7 1/4" diameter 24-tooth Freud Diablo, about $12. "Sub-size" blades run way smoother, and are legal in all fifty states and most European countries. Try it, you'll like it.

Oh, and treat yourself to a zero-clearance insert, too. I make mine out of scrap 1/2" baltic birch plywood, and use allen type set screws from the hardware store as levelers.

I was going to say "Here's a freshly installed strip getting a patented Sawdust Factory Wedgie," except it isn't an original idea. But I can't remember where I stole it, so there goes the credit. Sigh. I just can't wait for Alzheimer's to really kick in, it's gonna be great.

Anyway, I love using these things, they work so well. Position the holder-downer thingy in place like you want it, pop a spring clamp on to hold 'er there, then apply the c-clamp to make it stay till the cows come home.

They're also great for temporarily holding strips in place as you work 'em, with just a spring clamp. Did I mention that I use 'em all time?

Here I must fit a strip that's coming in at an angle. But it can get iffy trying to work accurately at the very tip since it wants to flex away from the plane or sanding block. And holding the strip in your fingers while working the taper isn't a lot of fun either. So...

The Shinto rasp.

Got mine from CLC. In fact, I get lots of my stuff from CLC. I love that outfit, and recommend 'em to noobs and veterans alike.